For years I thought black meant trouble, that it would show every ring, every crumb, every bit of dust the second the light hit it wrong. I bought a cheap one with a painted finish, not an actual stained or lacquered surface, and within a few months it looked like it had been through a divorce. Scratched white where the paint chipped at the edges, a permanent cloudy patch where a hot dish sat once. The fix wasn't avoiding black, it was understanding that black is a finish problem, not a color problem.
So now when I look at one, in a shop or the day it arrives, I check the surface before anything else. Run a hand across it. A good matte lacquer or a proper stain over solid wood or ply feels smooth and a little cool, with no give under your thumbnail. A cheap one has a slightly plasticky painted shell over MDF that chips if you breathe near the corner wrong, and you'll see the paler wood or base color underneath within the first year, usually right at the edge where plates get set down. Check the legs are actually attached with real hardware, not just glued dowels, and give the whole thing a shove sideways to see if it racks. As for where it earns its place, black works harder in small dining nooks and open plan kitchens than people expect, it doesn't visually compete with cabinetry or a rug the way a wood tone can, and it reads calm rather than heavy once there's a light wall or big window nearby. It suits older houses with some character already, and newer apartments that need one serious anchor piece. It's less forgiving in a small, dim room with no natural light, there it can just go flat and swallow the space, so you want a window or a decent lamp nearby if that's your situation.
Over time the good ones mellow rather than degrade, a stained wood top picks up a faint sheen from years of elbows and cloths, scratches sand out, and a yearly coat of wax or oil keeps it from looking tired. Wipe spills immediately, water rings are the real enemy, not scratches, and use coasters under anything hot even if the finish claims to handle it. Avoid anything that feels tacky to the touch in the shop, that's the paint type finish, and it will not age, it will just fail.
Next time you're looking at one, put your thumbnail to the surface before you look at the price tag.